Ghosts of Brewpubs Past – The Houston Brewery

Some people wonder how the Houston area with a population ten times that of Austin has only one brewpub and one microbrewery. Although that is about to change, many assume that the craft beer deficit is due to market dynamics, however a quick look at the historical record paints a different picture. While some of the areas brewpubs failed due to mismanagement (not to be named), others folded due to a change in location demographics (as Richmond lost its traffic impacting both Rock Bottom and Houston Brewery and Willowbrook was too slow to sustain The Hofbrau Brewpub), rising rent and declining profits (The Village Brewery), changing ownership (Hueys, Hops House) and family issues (The Bank Draught/Mercantile and Boondoggles). What follows is the complete unedited transcript of an interview with one of the best brewers in Houston’s history, Tim Case of the Houston Brewery, who produced numerous award winning beers but tragically left brewing altogether once the HB closed its doors. The interview is reproduced with permission of Buck Wyckoff who initially compiled it for inclusion into the Foamranger Homebrew Club newsletter in 1996 (it was just published in edited form last week…).

B: What was that you brought anyways? You brought the a…IPA was it? [In reference to a FR meeting at my house in March, 1996]
T: Yeah. It was IPA
B: Does that go quicker than any of the others?
T: Oh yeah, it’s the most popular beer.
B: Do you have the same range you opened with or do you change that around some?
T: Naw, it’s basically the same as what we started with.
B: It’s a white beer and…..is the white beer and wheat beer…is there both or is that….?
T: No, It’s the same.
B: Same thing?
T: Yeah.
B: And a brown ale and an IPA and….
T: The brown ale’s a seasonal. So we’ve got a light ale, best bitter, IPA, stout and white ale. Our five regulars. I’ll do a brown occasionally as a seasonal. It’s real popular. And I also have a cask conditioned which is on semi-regularly. I try to keep it on all the time but I can’t always do that.
B: I notice a lot of people are doing that, like that Saint Arnold cask
T: Yeah, they’re all following me. Rock Bottom started doing it but it wasn’t really cask. They were just hand pumping some stuff out of a keg. It was filtered beer.
B: I had it one time. They had this cask conditioned brown ale and the waitress is going, “Oh you should try it!” And I did and I remember it just sucking horribly.
T: Yeah, it wasn’t anything special.
B: So that wasn’t proper. Is it a special tap and everything though?
T: Oh yeah. It’s done individually in modified kegs. I mean I am doing it in stainless and not wood. Hey Buck, let me change phones a second okay……..I’m having to watch my runoff while I talk.
B: Oh, oh. Got something going?
T: Yeah. I’m brewing IPA as we speak.
B: Hey, well that’s topical. Talking about brewing and you’re doing it while we’re talking.
T: Oh, yeah!
B: So they talk about pulling a beer, that’s what they’re talking about right? The English style or something?
T: Yeah. Basically the original term “pulling” was when all the English pubs….basically what you had was cask conditioned ale. You know, that was how all the beer was done. There’s no gas pressure on the keg, you’re literally pulling the beer up from the cellar or up from the keg. You know, it’s a hand pump and the cask vents to the air.
B: I noticed in the case of the Saint Arnold’s they’re doing at the G-Man, both ways, I tried them side by side for the hell of it, and there’s a huge difference in taste.
T: Yeah, it’s really remarkable how much flavor even the residual yeast that’s left in the beer, when you fine it, you can get it pretty darn clear, not as clear as filtration….and that residual yeast, it’s really remarkable how much flavor it holds.
B: So your cask conditioned is more yeasty I guess?
T: Yeah, I mean it’s unfiltered. You do it just as if you were doing a bottle of homebrew or a keg of homebrew. You just prime it and seal it up and let the yeast do it.
B: You started doing that a long time ago?
T: Yeah! Hell, we started doing it about….well, I’d say it was about last January.
B: And you do the IPA that way?
T: IPA and Bitter. And actually, this time I’ve got a Special Bitter going. I did a seasonal right now, it’s a Special Bitter. It’s kind of a variation on the IPA. And I casked up a couple kegs of that too.
B: So you don’t have a helper anymore, you’re doing it on your own?
T: I’m doing it all by myself right now.
B: Is that pretty manageable though?
T: Yeah. It’s a…..it will keep you busy I’ll tell you that.
B: What’s your schedule like these days?
T: Oh, any time and all the time. [Laughs.] I’m probably in 65 to 70 hours a week over here now.
B: You’re getting quit a lot of hours logged as a brewer now though, aren’t you?
T: Yeah. You know, I do all my own maintenance, you know, cleaning and stuff like that. A brew day usually winds up being a ten hour day from the time I get fired up, you know, walk in the door until the time I walk out.
B: To do like a whole batch start to finish?
T: Yeah. It’s not every second in the brewhouse. It takes me a couple of hours to get rolling in the morning. And you know, towards the end of the day, finish it up. Fill out the log and stuff like that. You know you intermingle it with other tasks.
B: Always something to do I’m sure.
T: Oh yeah!
B: How’s the business going? Is it doing alright and everything?
T: Yeah, yeah. We’re doing a real good spring right now. We’re pretty happy.
B: Well, that’s good.
T: Come this summertime we’ll be doing good.
B: I sure would hate to see things slow down for anybody in this business, you know. I’d rather see it keep growing and keep booming.
T: I don’t think anybody’s having those kind of problems. I think basically what’s happening is we all have to grow the market, you know, as well as your own job. Keeping your product up and waiting for the market to come around….making it come around.
B: You guys do a heck of a lot of promotional stuff don’t ya?
T: Yeah, we try to do that rather than just straight up print advertising, taking the shotgun approach. You know, we cultivate different restaurant reviews, suck up any free publicity, articles and stuff like that, we can get…and of course we’re down at the beer festival and we sponsored, or partly sponsored the Baker Hughes Fun Run the weekend before the beer festival, so we donated a bunch of beer to them. We do the Taste of Houston in the fall. Yeah, we get out and try to do the festivals and that sort of thing as much as we can.
B: Hey, did you get everything from my house? Did anything get left behind? Is there any hardware or anything?
T: I got everything.
B: Cause I got a couple of kegs that got left behind. I finally got them cleaned out last night and I’m going to try to drop them off at the G-Man so people can pick ‘em up….er…..DeFalco’s.
T: I don’t think…..I had a coaster tied to mine. I think that one’s back in my garage.
B: Yeah, I think you probably got your stuff. J.D. left a keg for Dave Powers behind at my house and some other stuff. Have you been to the new DeFalco’s?
T: You know, I still haven’t. I want to get over there for a couple of reasons. I haven’t been over in The Village for some time, but a…there’s a new brewpub going in over there.
B: There is?
T: Yeah, a, you know, if you’re looking out from in front of the old DeFalco’s, you know where that Eddie Bauers is? Right across the street in that shopping center.
B: In the new shopping center?
T: Yeah. They’re going in on the second floor which is like a little food court.
B: Aw, your kidding, cause they’re being such pricks about not letting people park there when they’re tryin’ to go to the G-Man. So now they’re going to have a pub there?
T: Oh exactly. They got like 10,000 square feet upstairs.
B: Is this anybody I know? Who’s doing this?
T: No. Well, you may know them. It’s Two Rows out of Dallas.
B: Okay, so it’s some people coming in and setting up shop.
T: We were aware it was going to happen. I wasn’t exactly sure where. Neither was the person I heard it from. But I heard that they had a confirmed order for equipment like, two months ago.
B: Wow.
T: And I went scouting around the Village. Turns out I was looking at the right place. Nothing was going on. But yeah, I want to get over there and scout those guys as well as see DeFalco’s.
B: Yeah, I’m going to be over there. I’m going to be meeting Bruce at the Gingerman at 7:30 tonight. I don’t know what your schedule’s like, but you know, if you’re free….
T: Look around. Go in….if you park there, you know where University is?
B: Yeah.
T: Coming down that way. If you come into that strip center from University on the south side…you get down almost to University and Morningside….look up on the second floor to your left. There’s like a little staircase that goes up.
B: Uh huh.
T: And there’s kind of like a semi-circular court up on the second floor and that’s where they’re going in. And they’re literally going to be facing, er….backed up against the old DeFalco’s on the second floor.
B: That’s weird. I’ll have to take a good look when I get there tonight
T: Fully under construction right now. I don’t know if the equipment is on the site or not.
B: I know they’re doing a bunch of shit to the old DeFalco’s. Have you seen that?
T: Yeah. I heard a story about how they were, that the landlord wanted to do a nightclub there.
B: I cannot believe they didn’t just bulldoze that building to the ground.
T: Oh man, that things a piece of shit!
B: It is.
T: And apparently they built some sort of patio on the roof.
B: I’ve been up there. They did. They re-sheathed the whole roof in this silver stuff. It’s completely done. Then they put a beam inside of DeFalco’s. They knocked out two squares in the concrete floor about six foot in diameter and down about ten inches deep, to get to like some sublevel concrete to put a foundation in or something.
T: Wow.
B: Then they put in these two steel posts and then they put in this large steel beam all the way across the middle of the length of DeFalco’s. And then they put a dual staircase. When you go into what was the front door of DeFalco’s….they took the wall away from the entire front. You can just walk right into it now from the entire front. And everything else on the inside is all gutted out. And they took away that huge overhang they had over the sidewalk.
T: Yeah.
B: They took it all out but about ten feet right in the middle. And then they got a dual, treated lumber, two-level staircase that goes up half way to the left and to the right off the sidewalk and then turns and goes back up and goes up onto this landing and then there’s this deck that’s on the whole roof of the old DeFalco’s. Really weird.
T: Hold on a sec…….sorry to blast you out with the radio there.
B: Hey, no problem.
T: I’ve got the volume so I can here it over the pub. I’m getting my Limbaugh fix.
B: Oh……ew……
T: Yeah, that just amazes me cause number one, I don’t see how they got an occupancy permit for a club there cause they don’t have any damn parking.
B: That’s what I thought was stupid. When I first saw it, I thought maybe the Gingerman was expanding and I thought, “Well, maybe that’s not too bad.”
T: I know the Gingerman wanted to. That’s going to piss the G-Man off.
B: But to even put that effort into that piece of crap building amazes me. But anyways, is there any things that are going to happen in the future with the Houston Brewery that are in the works?
T: Well, you know, we’re still kind of looking for a new site. We want to get this place stabilized where we want it first.
B: A new site? You’re going to get a second location?
T: Yeah. That was our plan from the first, but we got off to a slower start than we anticipated.
B: I didn’t realize that.
T: Oh hell yeah. We wanted one inside the loop and one out.
B: Are you going to run the brewing in both places?
T: Uh huh.
B: You’re going to clone yourself and….
T: Well, yeah, obviously if we get to that point I’ll need an assistant. You know, that was the reason I hired Jeff. We figured we were going to hit the ground running. I figured that way you get one skilled person in here….and then if we open the next one, and I go over and open the next store.
B: So you’re going to have to hire somebody and get them up to speed on your operation I guess?
T: Yeah, exactly. Somebody I wouldn’t have to train from the start. They’d be good enough that I could leave them by themselves over here, go over and get the new place going. Do the executive brewmaster routine.
B: Well. I’m sure you’ll get lots of response. Whether or not you’ll get somebody qualified, I don’t know.
T: Yeah, so we’ll see. Don’t put it in there that I’m, you know, expansion eminent and I’m looking an assistant right now all the time from people. Oh, you’re by yourself? You must need an assistant. No, no I’m doing it by myself right now.
B: Naw, I won’t saw anything about that. But, so now you guys are at the point where you’re gonna go ahead and do that pretty soon?
T: Well, we’re hopin’. Like I say, it’s very tentative at this point, but a….if we have the summertime that we’re thinking. Yeah, we’re going to go ahead and do it.
B: So with a good summer, you guys will go ahead and go for it, huh?
T: Uh, huh.
B: Well, that’s pretty cool. So there’s be…..where do you think you’re going to go?
T: Oh, I have no idea at this point. We had some places scoped out before. Now everything has changed inside the loop so we’ll be back at square one again.
B: You probably wanted this first one to be inside the loop didn’t you, but you just couldn’t find a good place?
T: Oh, yeah. I mean our master plan was always to have one inside and one out. And a, this deal came through first. So we went with this one.
B: Yeah, I know you guys were looking for a place inside, just….
T: Oh, it’s hard as hell to find any place inside the loop that’s really workable. It’s mostly parking. It’s like any place that’s a good location, rents and real estate are just sky high. And then on the other hand you get a little off the beaten path, you got no parking. You couldn’t do an Ale House type routine if you wanted to…..inside the loop. What with the liquor license regulations they got now and trying to get some decent parking lined up. You got to have ten parking spaces per 1000 square feet.
B: Yeah? Geez.
T: If you’re talking about a 10,000 square foot place, you know, the size of ours out here. You got to have a hundred parking spaces.
B: I’ve had trouble parking at your place in the past.
T: We’ve got barely enough. Really when you’ve got a place this size, it’s be nice if we owned that car wash next door. I mean, that’s about the kind of parking you need.
B: I’m surprised they won’t let you like, pay them a little money and they’ll let you use it during the…
T: Oh, you can park there at night after they close. Yeah. We’ve got a deal with them. The guy that owns the car wash actually sold us this property.
B: Oh did he? It was his?

T: Hold on….. I just had to watch the last of my runoff here.
B: Hey. No problem, just take care of your beer. Where you one of the original Foam Rangers from the beginning?
T: Naw, I wasn’t an original. No. The first thing I did in conjunction with the Foam Rangers….I judged at the second Dixie Cup I guess it was.
B: Yeah, that was ….at T.V Rover’s?
T: No. The one before that. The first one I understand was at DeFalco’s. Then the second one was at the Orange Show. That’s the one I judged at. That must have been like ’82 I think.
B: A, ’84 I think was the first one.
T: Was it ’84?
B: Well, I did that one graphic were every bottle was a different year and it had the t-shirt on it and had the year on the cap. I think it started in ’84.
T: Well, I must have judged it…ask Scott which one that was. The first one I judged at was at the Orange Show. That was the second one I understood.
B: Yeah. I went….there were two at T.V Rovers and I wound up…..Bruce and Valerie and I were just riding around…..didn’t even know anything about homebrewing, the Foam Ranger’s or nothing….and we happened to show up at the Dixie Cup at T.V.Rovers. So you were judging at the Orange Show one?
T: Yeah.
B: How many was that? That was probably about forty entries or something?
T: You know I don’t even remember.
B: Well it wasn’t a lot though, I’m sure. Not too many meads, I’m sure.
T: Sure, it wasn’t nearly the size it is now.
B: I know just before you started doing the brewery business you were getting pretty serious with your setup and winning a whole….
T: I got pretty hot and heavy about ’86.
B: That’s when you were winning some massive ribbons at the Dixie Cup with a….light ales and a IPA’s and APA’s.
T: Yeah. One contest….I can’t remember what year that was….that one that I cleaned up was a…APA, east coast porter and light ale….yeah.
B: You got like first in all those?
T: Yeah. I think I got three firsts and Best of Show All Grain. That was pretty fun. Nothing like Todd Kellenbenz or Steve Daniels, but I had my 30 minutes of fame, you know.
B: Better than I ever will achieve, that for sure. [Ranting in the background.] What the heck are you listening to?
T: Oh, that’s might Richards on now. Local guy.
B: I was going to say….sounds like somebody’s getting pretty….pretty, ranting there. Is he a….
T: He’s a fire brand.
B: Is he a minister or what? [Silence] So a…I’ll let you go here in a second.
T: Yeah. Getting pretty close. I got to watch what I’m doing here. I’m about done running off. Almost at 19 ½ barrels.
B: I know all the folks at the meeting definitely appreciated you bringing all that beer. I think it was gone immediately.
T: Well that’s….you know…that’s the highest compliment I can be paid is to see people drink the beer. I have to admit. That really floats my boat.
B: Yeah. I’d think so. When people are drinking it and have a big grin on their face and you had something to do with that.
T: Yeah, I mean, you know, like I say, it’s one thing for your friends say “Yeah. It’s great. It’s great. It’s great.” But when strangers are drinking it and don’t know you and you see them enjoying it, that’s really more of an objective test.
B: You kind of watch from the shadows and view peoples reactions and things.
T: Exactly.
B: Every now and then I guess you get someone who isn’t really into quality beer and the wrinkle their nose and go, “I don’t like it.” [In my best nasaly whinny voice.]
T: Oh yeah. You catch a little flack. It’s inevitable. Hang on just one second….
B: Well, you’re doing something you love, that’s for sure.
T: Yeah, it’s a blast, I have to admit. There are days when you got to kind of pinch yourself and say, “Goddamn, I actually got there after all that time.”
B: Yeah. And you don’t plan on leaving right?
T: No.
B: You found your niche for life here?
T: Well, we’ll see.
B: It’d be a lot of fun
T: We’ll see how this company rides. If somebody offered me $50K a year to go open a micro for them, I might be amenable.
B: But you’re going to be brewin’ though from here on out?
T: Yeah. I hope so. That’s the way I’m looking at it now. I found something I can do and I’m getting better at it.
B: You’re not going to become an accountant or anything?
T: Nope. Naw, I’m dying to do another operation. You know, just seeing the things I’d do differently here. And now knowing what I know about the equipment. Just peripheral stuff.. I wouldn’t mind doing another one. Subcontract myself basically. Putting the pieces together.
B: Now that you’ve learned so much from this one I suppose.
T: Oh, yeah. I mean….now, you buy a package from somebody like Newlands and over time you start learning about a whole other level of…..where the component parts come from and stuff. Yeah, it’d be a blast. I think I could do another one for less money than we put this one together. Do a little bit more work myself and pull more stuff together from different sources and see if I couldn’t beat the cost a little bit.
B: And you’d have something even better, huh?
T: Yeah.
B: Is that what you’re going to do on the next one, er?
T: Yeah, probably so. Like I say, I’m keen to do another project. I love brewing beer. But it gets to be pretty routine. But like I say, I see the little shortfalls that I had on this system…..things I’d do differently and I’m working on them.
B: What would be a major thing you’d change in your current system?
T: Oh well, like right now, you know….we’re still having floor difficulties, but we’re getting ready to fix the floors.
B: Oh that floor is still causing problems?
T: Oh yeah. Basically I’ve learned a lot about composite floors like they use in chemical plants and stuff. Yeah. I know some materials now that, if I had the equipment out of the way, you could lay some gorgeous floors and you could sit and pour hydrochloric acid on it all day.
B: Yeah. Kind of hard to do it will all the equipment in place I guess.
T: Yeah. We’ve got a real bear of a job coming up here because it’s kind of like working on your car while your driving down the highway. We really can’t just stop production, so it complicates the job.
B: I’ll bet.
T: I got a guy who’s supposed to be showing up in the next couple of hours. A guy that’s gonna be… actually contracting the job for the material manufacturer, that we’re going to be plotting out the strategy…how we get this thing corrected.
B: You probably got to do it like upgrading a freeway, where you close it off in sections and work on this and that and….
T: Yeah, just about.
B: What a pain. That’s going to wind up coasting a lot more I guess too.
T: Well, we’ll see.
B: Well, that’s a live and learn process I guess. You won’t do that the next time around.
T: We took it out of the general contractors hide. We beat the shit out of him in court.
B: Oh really? Cause he did a lot of a… I remember you telling me they went without plans on a lot of the stuff. They just sort of snaked shit around and winged it.
T: Oh, I wouldn’t say that. I mean like the electrician who was on the job was a real nit wit. The GC went with every goddamn subcontractor that was the cheapest and like, hell the guy that he hired to do the floor up there….not only was the material not up to spec, the company didn’t even exist anymore.
B: Geez. Fly by night.
T: Goddamn fly by night operation
B: Took his money and ran. The general contractor, I guess…they subcontract everybody else and they’re responsible for their work?
T: Exactly. The architect specs it out. The GC put in his bid for the building. Okay, I see this. I see the specs. I can build this building for $750,000. Okay, you’re hired. Now alright, it’s up to you to hire subcontractors subject to our approval, blah, blah, blah. And you know, there’s some sort of a deal there with the subcontractor. But as long as he meets specs to the architects satisfaction then we disperse money to them. Basically, the architect is responsible for looking at what the general contractor got done. Say’s okay, this is up to spec, we’ll go ahead and disperse the next 20% of the money. So the architect is supposedly your advocate in dealing with the general contractor and deciding when a task is done and then when you hit certain completion points on the building….25% done, 50% done….the architect disperses your money from escrow and pays the general contractor.
B: That’s how it works in theory, huh?
T: Yeah. I mean, that’s general business practices there, you know, okay the bid goes in for 750 whatever, you put the money in escrow, you know, the contractor gets say 20% up front for materials or something like that. And then the money gets dispersed to the subs and they start working. And the architect is your guy who decides when you are hitting the checkpoints. Like, okay, we got the slab down, we got the plumbing under the slab…all that crap, the storm drains, plumbing, parking lot down, blah, blah, blah. Okay, the buildings now 25% complete. Therefore we’re going to disperse $125,000. You know, something like that.
B: But I guess it all didn’t go smooth, huh?
T: Well, like I say, w got burned on a couple of things. Basically about shoddy materials and shit like that. Goddamn work was way behind schedule.
B: Yeah, I remember it taking quite awhile there. It seems like it got held up for the wood or something, right? It seemed like it sat there for a long time.
T: That was one thing that happened, yeah. I mean, by the time they ordered the wood, the shop that they had speced it out from didn’t have it. Then they spent two weeks looking for another shop that could come up with it. And then it would up having to be custom milled and then shipped out of Oregon. So yeah, that fiasco cost us like four weeks.
B: Yeah, I remember driving by there checking it out and seemed like for awhile it didn’t seem like anything was happening.
T: That was terrible. That was the first of many fiascos.
B: Well, I guess to some degree that’s going to happen. And you’re a lot wiser about certain things now. I guess the next one ought to go a lot smoother, huh?
T: Yep. That’s the plan.
B: Well, good luck to you. Good luck on the expansion and to future success with both places.
T: Well, appreciate that.
B: I’m sure we’ll be crossing paths here in the near future.
T: Yeah, yeah. Need to get together. I mean I’ve basically been underground, you know, going back and forth to work, trying to keep my head above water and that’s all I’ve been able to do lately.
B: Yeah, I’ve been totally swamped myself here. It’s been crazy.
T: Well, we’ll give you a call.
B: Alright, well you take it easy. Say hi to Donna for me.
T: I’ll do that.
B: Adios.

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Kreuz Creek Brewing Sugarland making progress

Reproduced for your enjoyment a letter from Kreuz Creek owner Jeff King (find updates on facebook until new website is up)

Salutations,

 

As many local brewers are well aware of, we’ve been developing our 

start-up in the Sugar Land/Stafford area in the past couple years.  

We’re nearing finalization of our initial site lease negotiations and will commence w/ open tours on Saturday afternoons.  Of course, most regional homebrewers have been interested in our brewhouse set-up and tank configuration.  We’re currently finalizing our order for a 50-bbl 4-vsl brewhouse, in addition to 50-bbl tanks.  A special thanks to the Mayors of Sugar Land and Stafford, who have been a tremendous help through the past couple months.  Not to mentional all the local businesses as well.  Thank you!  Visit us at our facebook page for updates and tentative beer release dates.  For many that have inquired on volunteer/employment opportunities, we’ll keep you updated.  Thanks for your support and prost!!

 

Jeff King

Owner – Kreuz Creek Brewing Co.

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The Real Ale Anniversary Party, a Hot Time in Blanco!

TimReal Ale hosted its 14th Anniversary party in Blanco on the 26th with free beer and bar-b-que and the Church of Zymurology bus was on hand delivering a group of the faithful from nearby Austin. A string of special beers were on tap including two years of Devil’s Backbone and consecutive casks of which the dry-hopped Fireman’s and the Rye really stood out. Tours were given throughout the day and Tim Schwartz reported the company currently has a Pilsner conditioning that should be ready for distribution (in kegs only) in the next two to three weeks. They will subscequently follow their foray into lagers with an Octoberfest which will be both kegged and bottled sometime in August or September. As you can see Real Ale Caskfrom the pictures it was a great time, but it was a little warm which prompted a stop for a dip in the Blanco River before returning that night.

For a short video of a reveler at the recent festival see http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=125060327535002.

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Mens Health Magazine Declared a Blasphemer!

Due to its high caloric content Mens Health Magazine has named one of the country’s most revered Barleywines as one of its worst drinks in America http://eatthis.menshealth.com/slide/worst-beer-0?slideshow=184612#title. Labeling it as a “gut-inducing guzzler” sunk to the deepest depths of moral depravity, but to follow with a call to drink Lienenkugel’s Nut Brown in its place as a lighter substitute smacked of pure heresy. For this there can be no excuse and there will be no absolution. To that end The Church of Zymurology has labeled Men’s Health Magazine a blasphemer of the vilest kind and suggests all that would otherwise do so shun the publication. For those that have seen this tome or happen to look at its cover during a visit to a newsstand we suggest the immediate subsequent consumption of at least six  bottles of Bigfoot, preferably of the vintaged variety. And may God have mercy on your soul.

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A Trip to Beervana…So Much Beer So Little Time!

Portland Oregon, those two words conjure up images of a craft brew heaven for anyone that loves good beer. And who could argue, the city and its environs host almost 30 different brewpubs and breweries , quite a few more if you count all thirty six metro area McMenamins (a local mega chain) and several brewpub taphouse offshoots such as those Laurelwood and New Old Lompoc operates. Laurelwood and Rogue also operate taphouse restaurants at the Portland Airport. But I digress, to see a more complete listing of breweries throughout the state and also printout a map go to www.oregonbeer.org, a site maintained by the state’s brewers guild. You will also find useful maps made by the same organization at most brewpubs around town.  Do some research just in case as some newer breweries and brewpubs such as Migration might not be listed.

While we were in Portland for Fredfest, which we covered with an earlier post, we took the opportunity while in town to visit many area brewpubs, breweries and taphouses. While not by any means complete the following is an account of what we found along the way. First off a few observations and generalizations –  Portland has a good transit system that allows for free travel within much of the downtown area, but unlike what you will find in Denver or Montreal for instance, brewpubs and taphouses in Portland are spread out and only a few lend themselves to walking pub crawls (mainly those in the Pearl district).  Stay on the Max (light rail) line if possible, even if you are in the Pearl district you will want to venture out.  Hotels in the convention center area are generally cheaper and still fairly convenient and central in that respect.

Our first night we ventured into the Pearl district and visited the Rogue taphouse (the brewery is located along the coast in Newport). A sampler platter of what we were hoping would be flavorful brews that included three IPAs left us a little disappointed and unfortunately their cask bitter had diacetyl issues (beyond what anyone would expect even if they had used Ringwood yeast – yes I know they have their own Pacman yeast).  Note that while Rogue doesn’t brew here they do distill at the location and you can try a number of their liquors. Although the time difference and traveling tired us out we were undeterred and determined to find something to end the night on a high note. Luckily the Deschutes brewery (the main brewery is in Bend) was only a few blocks away and well worth the diversion. Deschutes spent a pretty penny on this place which boasts a fantastic pilot brewing system which produces most of the non-standard beers there and northwest décor that includes a lot of carved wood and local stone. Standouts included a fantastic and clean, yet slightly fruity cask bitter as well as very fresh Hop Henge IPA (9%).  The food looked wonderful which prompted a return on a couple days later.

Full Sail Pilot Brewery in PortlandThe next day we ventured South to the Full Sail brewhouse and taproom attached to the upscale McCormick and Schmicks.  Like Deschutes, most of Full Sail’s beers are made elsewhere (Hood River) but brewer John Harris (see half of him in the pictureto the left) makes many of the company’s prototypes and special editions on the system at this location. And if you go during happy hour you can munch on fantastic $1.99 appetizers. Several of the beers sampled were top of the line including an imperial stout and a cask version of the Slipknot Imperial IPA, although the other beers, most of which were regular Full Sail staples such as their pale ale were clean but still less inspiring by comparison so it might be worth it to call before visiting.  If you don’t mind a lengthy walk after Full Sail the Hawthorne Bridge takes you back to the Southeast part of town and almost directly to the Yellow Lab brewpub. The Yellow Lab is open with a large patio and normally a lot of dog owners, especially on a rare sunny day. A sample of some of their more flavorful beers including a stout and a few hoppy examples such as aThe Obligatory Picture of Charles triple IPA were clean but in some cases unbalanced. Go for the ambiance and to down a session beer or two but don’t expect to have your socks blown off.  We started to head into Roots brewpub a few blocks away when we received a call from our friend Charles (Google ”Charles beer nerd Portland” and he shows up as #4 on the list - see the obligatory picture to the right at Saraveza) who cautioned that the location was up for sale and had gone down a bit. Having noticed a fairly run of the mill line up on their board we agreed to save ourselves and head to the Green Dragon instead, which seemed to be about a five minute walk north. The Green Dragon is a beer bar that recently started brewing and shares space with a distillery. Rogue bought the place so it fell out of favor with some beer nerds, but we found their selection great and well thought out.  An 8% black IPA was their sole brewpub offering, but they had a wide selection including a personal favorite of mine, Mad River Barleywine.  From there we met up with friends Janice and her husband Warren and headed back out to the grand opening of a new beer bar called Apex (www.apexbar.com) where we finally met up with our friend Charles and his lovely wife Teresa and enjoyed Firestone Walker Oatmeal Stout and Union Jack IPA. From there it was across the street to the Beer Monger, a little bottle hop with taps and several tables where we enjoyed several bottles of HUB Imperial IPA among others. If my memory serves we left and were driven to the Concordia Ale House after that for a final beer and something to eat.

Michael at HUBThe next day began at a leisurely pace with a visit to Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB), a nice organic brewpub and restaurant with solid offerings but nothing to note beyond the usual, stout, pale ale and lagers. While HUB makes a good Imperial IPA it was not on draft (no IPAs in fact – which I found quite strange for Portland).  Venturing down to the brewery Janice was able to wrangle a free tour by co-brewer Michael (picture on the left) who showed us the nice shiny stainless and a very small cold room.  After eating at HUB we drove back north to Upright Brewing Company (www.uprightbrewing.com) which is located near the Rose Garden but a little difficult to find as it’s located in the basement of retail center. A very small Belgian inspired micro, Upright uses open fermentation and ages many of their offerings in various barrels. Their tasting room is open during limited hours on Friday and the weekend (picture on right). While an apricot limbic and another maltier experimental sour beer were standouts several others were not as impressive. Although the lambic was not available in bottles they did have a seasonal release called Four Play which sported a provocative label and given the descriptionUpright Brewing Company seemed like it would be worth taking a chance on.  Later in the early evening we met up with another friend Constanze, who came into town for Fredfest and made our way back over into the Pearl district towards Bridgeport, one of the oldest breweries in the state. Having visited almost fifteen years ago I was unprepared for how modern and swanky the place is now. Don’t get me wrong progress can be good, but it seemed like they sucked the soul right out of the place.  For a Saturday it seemed very quiet as we sipped on our stouts. Unfortunately they had none of their seasonal such as the barleywine or imperial anything on tap.  Somewhat disappointed we ambled a few blocks back to Deschutes for dinner and more quality offerings (which this time included two distinct but delicious cask bitters) before deciding to call it a day.

On our third night in Portland we rented a car and made some touristy stops on the way to Hood River for a visit to Full Sail via a stop at McMenamins Edgefield (a former workhouse now brewpub/hotel/distillery and drunk compound).  The Full Sail brewery is larger than I expected and the place was packed during lunch. We found space at the bar and ordered a sampler platter which included little beyond the normal Full Sail selections. It was interesting to note we all agreed the imperial stout we were served was not as roasty and full bodied as the one served in Portland and I forgot to ask John when we visited the latter again whether they were the same batch.  We then walked to nearby Double Mountain to try a few of their offerings that included a high gravity Kriek (described as a cross between a tripel and a kreik), another cherry Belgian inspired beer, and their Rye IPA. Aside from being a bit pricey the two cherry flavored offerings fell short with regard to flavor in everyone’s opinion. The Rye IPA which others seem to like was somewhat cloudy and not very hoppy in terms of bitterness or aroma.  Somewhat let down by what we found in Hood River we decided to start making our way back so we could stop in at Belmont Station and the Horsebrass nearby, as both are a little beyond any light rail stop. Belmont was first on the list being the premier bottle shop with an attached draft bar carrying quality offerings at reasonable prices. It was very nice to be able to shop while sipping on a Russian River Pliney the Elder. After loading up several boxes of beer into the rental car we went down theHorsebrass Pub Portland street to the Horsebrass (see picture to the right), a traditional English pub with only quality selections on tap and finally…hops. From Caldera to Walking Man we counted twelve IPAs on tap – bless you Don Younger! We finished our beers and were once again contacted by our local buddy Charles who suggested we go to one of his favorite watering holes, the Moon and Sixpence, another authentic British pub North of downtown with a quality draft selection including several casks. After returning the rental car I caught up with our friends at Saraveza later that night, a beer bar in far north downtown that also carries bottles to drink there or to go. We finally cracked open a Cascade Kriek along with a few other local selections including a can of Maui Coconut Porter.  It was a nice quiet end to a perfect day.

Our final day also began on a leisurely note (déjà vu?) as we headed out to do a little sightseeing and then visit one of the New Lompoc locations nearby (in Oregon, and in stark contrast to states such as Texas, one brewpub can supply other bars and its own taphouses with the beers it brews).  The location we visited, The Hedge House, was set in a residential area and reminded me of a quaint café, so we ate and sampled some of their beers, none of which deviated from the usual stout, pale ale, and IPA.  Wanting to end our afternoon on a high note before going to Fredfest later that night we opted to get a cab back over to the Full Sail brewpub for one last imperial stout then head to the hotel for a little rest. And as to Fredfest you can read the sordid details in our prior post, it was a fitting end to a long trip. While reflecting on our trip during the four plus hour flight to Texas I had some regrets about not getting out to the Raccoon Lodge and Brewpub, home of Cascade brewing, makers of some of the country’s best Belgian-style sour ales, but it is located on the edge of the city and its offerings seemed readily available around town.  We had similar regrets about Amnesia and Laurelwood, although again we did try bottle versions. In retrospect Portland is a great beer town and while it might contain the largest number of breweries in the US, true gems were somewhat more difficult to find than I had expected (or remembered from my trip 15 years ago). In my very humble opinion breweries in both San Diego and Denver have been more creative recently. So for all of those in Texas that pine away for the Northwest you shouldn’t feel too dejected.  Although Texas boasts relatively few breweries and brewpubs some of the ones in our own backyard are making wildly creative stuff and with several set to start up in Austin and Houston within the next year it will only get better. I’d much rather have one quality micro or brewpub making a wide variety of beers than ten making strikingly similar pale ales, stouts and lagers.  That said, I can’t wait to return again to find out how things have changed.  After all next year Fred turns 85.

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Fredfest 2010…A Modest Recap.

FredLast Monday Fred Eckhart turned 84 and over 250 admirers were on hand at the new Hair of the Dog brewery in downtown Portland to wish him a happy birthday. The event was limited to 250 and sold out several days prior. We lined up just after 5pm and the line behind us quickly grew. Admission was finally granted around 6:15 only slightly behind schedule and everyone rushed around seeking beers that would generate the longest lines and those that might be depleted early. Instead of heading to the beer we made our way to Fred and spent some time talking about old times, but as more people filtered in we decided to allow Fred to meet and greet others and find some beer ourselves. We would stop and talk to the guest of honor many times throughout the night. After theline.jpgdowning a sample of Barley Brown’s Cherry Wood Smoked Rye I was told to get a sample of Hair of the Dog’s Cherry Fed from the Wood, a cheery wood aged version of Fred that was dark purple with a lot of alcohol, fruit and wood in both the aroma and taste. Other standouts that night included Firestone Walker’s Parabola, a wood aged 13% imperial stout that was incredibly smooth and drinkable given the alcohol content.Hair of the Dog Kettle Other high gravity beers of note included a nice malty barrel aged barley wine from the Lucky Lab as well as a 2003 Old Gnarly Head barley wine from Wild Duck by the late Glen Falconer. Several high quality sour ales also stood out including Cascade’s The Vine, a light colored barrel aged sour made with white grapes, and New Belgium’s The Trip V, made with vanilla, cherries and cocoa beans. New Old Lompoc’s Flamingo, a pale ale made with cherries was also mice if a bit subdued after tasting the others, while Rock Bottom’ Maude Flanders, a blend of several aged Flemish sours was unfortunately over the top with unpleasant acetone and solvent notes. With all of the big beers presented it was somewhat disappointing there were no hoppyFred’s Birthday Cake ones.  In the picture to the right note the small boil kettle HOD is still using despite the size of their new brewery. They insist changing it might impact the flavor of theirDon Younger Chatting up the Girls beers and I don’t think anyone would want that to happen. Several brewing big-wigs from Ninkasi, Widmer, Hair of the Dog (obviously) and others milled around, but the highlight for at least two young ladies with us involved being propositioned by Don Younger who wanted to take them back to the Horsebrass.  For more information on Fredfest see www.fredfestpdx.com.

 

 

 

 

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Southern Star Conroe Pro-Am is … Smoked Porter

The brothers traveled to Conroe Texas today to take part in the judging of Southern Star’s Pro-Am competition. A total of 53 entries were submitted and 15 moved on to second round, among them a number of bocks and one Dopple Bock (my personal favorite). Judging began at 10am and all was completed by 2pm (including a short respite and bar-b-que lunch provided by our gracious hosts). Ultimately by consensus and then a final vetting by owners Dave and Brian the winner was chosen – the next Pro-Am will be a Smoked Porter submitted by KGB Homebrew Club member Ed Condon. We congratulate Ed and look forward to trying this delicious libation in the future.

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Jester King Austin Prepares to Lay the Foundation

jester.jpgThe good folk at Jester King had a few people out for an official groundbreaking party on Friday of last week and progress on the brewery is well underway.  Founder Jeff Stuffings had several Jester King prototypes to try including a wood aged Imperial Stout and their very sessionable hoppy American Wheat labeled Das Wunderkind, which I think is destined to become a best seller. The cement truck is scheduled to pour on Wednesday of this week and the structure will be assembled quickly thereafter. As the sun sets over a very impressive landscape only minutes from the city proper in the picture to the right Jeff points out where everything is to go. See more pictures of the guys getting dirty at http://www.jesterkingbrewery.com/.

In somewhat related news, Edward Peters currently at Austin Homebrew Supply was identified as the new brewer at South Austin Brewing Company once it starts up (at least I didn’t spill the beans). For background on South Austin see http://southaustinbrewing.wordpress.com/.

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